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A throwback to the days before cholesterol was invented. – – The Food – Say the words "lobster Newberg," and people usually sigh, wistful about the days when formal-style restaurants served food that was all about luxury. La Mere Michelle is really a grandmere now, and still serves the foods of its youth more than two decades ago. There are crystal chandeliers and suitably obsequious waiters, but the restaurant's real feats of beautiful anachronism are all on the table. – – Bites We Like – Veal and filet dishes are among the best offerings,…