A throwback to the days before cholesterol was invented.. A throwback to the days before cholesterol was invented.

The Food
Say the words "lobster Newberg," and people usually sigh, wistful about the days when formal-style restaurants served food that was all about luxury. La Mere Michelle is really a grandmere now, and still serves the foods of its youth more than two decades ago. There are crystal chandeliers and suitably obsequious waiters, but the restaurant's real feats of beautiful anachronism are all on the table.

Bites We Like
Veal and filet dishes are among the best offerings, usually served with some kind of butter-based sauce that is clearly gilding the lily. Appetizer highlights include a classic shrimp cocktail and hearts of palm salad truly from another era.

The Scene
Service can sometimes be glacially slow, so ask to be seated on the pretty patio where you can take in the Saratoga sights.

—Laura Reiley

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